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Acoustic Treatment Optimise acoustics in your studio environment for accurate mixing - the best advice here..

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Old 25th February 2009 , 07:42 PM
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Question Bespoke Acoustic Treatment... Again & Again i Know

well been ticking things off my '09 shopping list as i get them and it has now come to treating my room before the UAD2 and convertors, i have been reading up on these threads and getting a rough idea of what to do.

using the below image as a very rough guide i was going to treat the wall behind me, to the right of me and directly above me with RS45.

on the back wall i will also include RS60 for low level treatment.



as for the corners and left wall (built in cupboards) im pretty clueless
any ideas?

iv provided some pics of my room as an idea

Left wall and facing wall with window



Back wall and left wall



Back wall and Right wall (sorry for bad pic)



Right wall and Facing wall



i will pop up the dimensions when i measure up but that will be later.

so now looking at the room, was thinking

2 RS45 & 2 RS60 panels on the back wall

2 RS45 & 1 RS60 panels on the right wall

1 RS45 panel above me.

for the actual panels was thinking of simply framing the Rocksilk in wood and wrapping them in some material of sorts?

anything else you guys can recommend? i have no fancy measuring devices nor do i really understand them
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Last edited by sureno; 26th February 2009 at 04:15 PM. . <
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Old 25th February 2009 , 08:19 PM
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also the slabs should they be 50mm, 75mm or 100mm?
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Old 25th February 2009 , 09:12 PM
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Your plan sounds good as does the fabrication method. It'll work just fine.

If you can't do a lot of the vertical corners (and it seems like you can't), then you can at least trap the heck out of the back wall and add a couple of 4" panels at the wall/ceiling corner there and at the wall/ceiling corners on the right and left above the panels at your first reflection points. If they won't fit there then trap the wall/ceiling corners further back into the room. I'd also add at least one more panel above you...maybe two. I wouldn't do a single panel under 4" thick in this room either.

The point is, if you can't get the vertical corners then trap the corners that you *can* get. Treat the room you have, not the room you don't.

Frank
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Old 25th February 2009 , 09:17 PM
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right i got you, great stuff so plaster 100mm panels in creases and walls
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Old 25th February 2009 , 09:20 PM
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Frank as ever is spot on. A natty approach to that corner with the trianglular wardrobe might be to take the door off and fill it with triangles of rockwool cut to fit. Fill that whole corner that way and you'd have a useful superchunk trap.
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Old 25th February 2009 , 09:29 PM
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i think a pillar type construction from desk up behind the tv is feasable, as for the open indent cupboard on the left wall i will shuffle bits around so i can add a trap in that corner.

as for the 2 corners on the back wall maybe a small trap above the doors corner.

one question, if im to go 2 panels above me when i look up should the length be horizontal or vertical, make sense

[__] [__] width side by side or [] [] length side by side
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Old 25th February 2009 , 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sureno View Post
i think a pillar type construction from desk up behind the tv is feasable, as for the open indent cupboard on the left wall i will shuffle bits around so i can add a trap in that corner.

as for the 2 corners on the back wall maybe a small trap above the doors corner.

one question, if im to go 2 panels above me when i look up should the length be horizontal or vertical, make sense

[__] [__] width side by side or [] [] length side by side
Whichever covers the mirror point best
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Old 25th February 2009 , 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCircleStudios View Post
Whichever covers the mirror point best
ah lovely, now got to go Travis Perkins tomorrow, think il need to sign up or something to be able to buy anything
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Old 25th February 2009 , 10:16 PM
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are mirror points basically found at the speakers level?
the panels above should cover as much of the desk area/workspace correct?
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Old 26th February 2009 , 11:13 AM
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ok just about to head out and buy some RS45, RS60 is hard to find so settling for RSW3 which is the equivalent to RS60.

any suggestions on how to mount these bad boys in a temporary non permanent fashion, silicone? need something non rigid i presume and from what iv read a gap of around 25mm is ideal between wall and panel?
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Old 26th February 2009 , 11:22 AM
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Quick warning - there's nothing non-permanent about silicone!

Personally, I would suggest mounting some brackets or hooks on the wall and hang your panels from them using heavy gauge picture wire, and if I'm correct, a bit of an air gap between each panel and the wall should increase it's effectiveness.

I'm sure Frank will chime in with a better qualified solution
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Old 26th February 2009 , 11:26 AM
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cool, was suggested a mastic of sorts as anything too rigid will prove the panel less effective.

whats a good attachment for the panels above my head
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Old 26th February 2009 , 11:47 AM
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Depending upon the final weight, I would suggest screwing some eye-hooks through the ceiling into the joists and use either heavy gauge picture-wire or thin chain to hang the panel from the hooks. This should only create a small hole in the ceiling where each hook is screwed through which can be very easily repaired if the hooks are ever removed using a little dab of painter's caulk (same applies for any screw holes made in the walls).

Eyelet hooks:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79956/...90mm-Pack-of-5

Painter's caulk:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/35403/...ers-Mate-310ml
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Old 26th February 2009 , 11:52 AM
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i hope i have joists over the mirror points
i will be going with this idea
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Old 26th February 2009 , 12:07 PM
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You should be able to find some close enough, they should be every 18 inches to 2ft... by juggling attachment points to the ceiling/wall, to the panel and by varying the length of the attached wires you should be able to position the panels more or less just where you want them.
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